Predicting marine and aeolian contributions to the Sand Engine's evolution using coupled modelling

Bart van Westen; Arjen P. Luijendijk; Sierd de Vries; Nicholas Cohn; Tim W.B. Leijnse; Matthieu A. de Schipper

doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2023.104444

Predicting marine and aeolian contributions to the Sand Engine's evolution using coupled modelling

Bart van Westen^*, Arjen P. Luijendijk, Sierd de Vries, Nicholas Cohn, Tim W.B. Leijnse, Matthieu A. de Schipper

^*Corresponding author for this work

Water and Climate Risk

Research output: Contribution to Journal › Article › Academic › peer-review

Abstract

Quantitative predictions of marine and aeolian sediment transport in the nearshore–beach–dune system are important for designing Nature-Based Solutions (NBS) in coastal environments. To quantify the impact of the marine-aeolian interactions on shaping NBS, we present a framework coupling three existing process-based models: Delft3D Flexible Mesh, SWAN and AeoLiS. This framework facilitates the continuous exchange of bed levels, water levels and wave properties between numerical models focussing on the aeolian and marine domain. The coupled model is used to simulate the morphodynamic evolution of the Sand Engine mega-nourishment. Results display good agreement with the observed aeolian and marine volumetric developments, showing similar marine-driven erosion from the main peninsula and aeolian-driven infilling of the dune lake. To estimate the magnitude of the interactions between aeolian and marine processes, a comparison between the simulated morphological development by the coupled and stand-alone models was made. This comparison shows that aeolian sediment transport to the foredune, i.e. 214,000 m³ over 5 years, extracts sediment from the marine domain. As a result, the alongshore redistribution of sediment from the main peninsula by marine-driven processes decreased by 70,000 m³, representing 1.7% of the total marine-driven dispersion. From the aeolian perspective, marine-driven deposition and erosion reshape the cross-shore profile, controlling the supply-limited aeolian sediment transport and the magnitude of sediment deposition in the foredunes. In the region with persistent accretion along the Sand Engine's southern flank, a higher than average foredune deposition was predicted due to morphological development of the region where sediment is picked up by aeolian transport. Including these marine processes in the coupled model resulted in an increase of 1.3% in foredune growth in year 1 and up to 6.7% in year 5 along this accretive section. At the northern flank, where the developing lagoon and tidal channel provided increased shelter to the supratidal beach, predicted foredune deposition reduced up to −11.5% over the evaluation period. Our findings show that both aeolian and marine transports impact reshaping the nourished sand, where developments in one domain affect the other. The study findings echo that the interplay between aeolian- and marine-driven morphodynamics could play a relevant role when predicting sandy NBS.

Original language	English
Article number	104444
Pages (from-to)	1-18
Number of pages	18
Journal	Coastal Engineering
Volume	188
Early online date	27 Dec 2023
DOIs	https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2023.104444
Publication status	Published - Mar 2024

Bibliographical note

Funding Information:
This work was supported by the project TKI Dutch Coastline Challenge, The Netherlands , which is co-funded by the Rijksdienst voor Ondernemend Nederland (RVO), The Netherlands , the Dutch Ministry of Infrastructure and Water, The Netherlands , Rijkswaterstaat, The Netherlands , Vereniging van Waterbouwers, The Netherlands , EcoShape, The Netherlands , TU Delft, The Netherlands and the Deltares Strategic Research Program Seas and Coastal Zones, The Netherlands . Their contributions to this research are highly appreciated. The development of the coupling framework is partially funded by the Deltares Strategic Research Programme ‘Seas and Coastal Zones’, The Netherlands . Furthermore, this work is part of the research programme DuneForce with project number 17064 , which is partly financed by the Dutch Research Council (NWO), The Netherlands . Field data was collected by the Dutch Ministry of Infrastructure and the Environment (Rijkswaterstaat) with the support of the Province of South-Holland, the European Fund for Regional Development EFRO and EcoShape Building with Nature. The constructive comments of Stefan Aarninkhof and Peter Herman (Delft University of Technology) helped to shape this study.

Funding Information:
This work was supported by the project TKI Dutch Coastline Challenge, The Netherlands, which is co-funded by the Rijksdienst voor Ondernemend Nederland (RVO), The Netherlands, the Dutch Ministry of Infrastructure and Water, The Netherlands, Rijkswaterstaat, The Netherlands, Vereniging van Waterbouwers, The Netherlands, EcoShape, The Netherlands, TU Delft, The Netherlands and the Deltares Strategic Research Program Seas and Coastal Zones, The Netherlands. Their contributions to this research are highly appreciated. The development of the coupling framework is partially funded by the Deltares Strategic Research Programme ‘Seas and Coastal Zones’, The Netherlands. Furthermore, this work is part of the research programme DuneForce with project number 17064, which is partly financed by the Dutch Research Council (NWO), The Netherlands. Field data was collected by the Dutch Ministry of Infrastructure and the Environment (Rijkswaterstaat) with the support of the Province of South-Holland, the European Fund for Regional Development EFRO and EcoShape Building with Nature. The constructive comments of Stefan Aarninkhof and Peter Herman (Delft University of Technology) helped to shape this study.

Publisher Copyright:
© 2024 The Authors

Funding

This work was supported by the project TKI Dutch Coastline Challenge, The Netherlands , which is co-funded by the Rijksdienst voor Ondernemend Nederland (RVO), The Netherlands , the Dutch Ministry of Infrastructure and Water, The Netherlands , Rijkswaterstaat, The Netherlands , Vereniging van Waterbouwers, The Netherlands , EcoShape, The Netherlands , TU Delft, The Netherlands and the Deltares Strategic Research Program Seas and Coastal Zones, The Netherlands . Their contributions to this research are highly appreciated. The development of the coupling framework is partially funded by the Deltares Strategic Research Programme ‘Seas and Coastal Zones’, The Netherlands . Furthermore, this work is part of the research programme DuneForce with project number 17064 , which is partly financed by the Dutch Research Council (NWO), The Netherlands . Field data was collected by the Dutch Ministry of Infrastructure and the Environment (Rijkswaterstaat) with the support of the Province of South-Holland, the European Fund for Regional Development EFRO and EcoShape Building with Nature. The constructive comments of Stefan Aarninkhof and Peter Herman (Delft University of Technology) helped to shape this study. This work was supported by the project TKI Dutch Coastline Challenge, The Netherlands, which is co-funded by the Rijksdienst voor Ondernemend Nederland (RVO), The Netherlands, the Dutch Ministry of Infrastructure and Water, The Netherlands, Rijkswaterstaat, The Netherlands, Vereniging van Waterbouwers, The Netherlands, EcoShape, The Netherlands, TU Delft, The Netherlands and the Deltares Strategic Research Program Seas and Coastal Zones, The Netherlands. Their contributions to this research are highly appreciated. The development of the coupling framework is partially funded by the Deltares Strategic Research Programme ‘Seas and Coastal Zones’, The Netherlands. Furthermore, this work is part of the research programme DuneForce with project number 17064, which is partly financed by the Dutch Research Council (NWO), The Netherlands. Field data was collected by the Dutch Ministry of Infrastructure and the Environment (Rijkswaterstaat) with the support of the Province of South-Holland, the European Fund for Regional Development EFRO and EcoShape Building with Nature. The constructive comments of Stefan Aarninkhof and Peter Herman (Delft University of Technology) helped to shape this study.

Keywords

AeoLiS
Coupled modelling
Delft3D Flexible Mesh
Mega nourishment
Morphodynamics
Numerical modelling

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10.1016/j.coastaleng.2023.104444

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Cite this

@article{76505386e33b4d3cbd73532e21b65eda,

title = "Predicting marine and aeolian contributions to the Sand Engine's evolution using coupled modelling",

abstract = "Quantitative predictions of marine and aeolian sediment transport in the nearshore–beach–dune system are important for designing Nature-Based Solutions (NBS) in coastal environments. To quantify the impact of the marine-aeolian interactions on shaping NBS, we present a framework coupling three existing process-based models: Delft3D Flexible Mesh, SWAN and AeoLiS. This framework facilitates the continuous exchange of bed levels, water levels and wave properties between numerical models focussing on the aeolian and marine domain. The coupled model is used to simulate the morphodynamic evolution of the Sand Engine mega-nourishment. Results display good agreement with the observed aeolian and marine volumetric developments, showing similar marine-driven erosion from the main peninsula and aeolian-driven infilling of the dune lake. To estimate the magnitude of the interactions between aeolian and marine processes, a comparison between the simulated morphological development by the coupled and stand-alone models was made. This comparison shows that aeolian sediment transport to the foredune, i.e. 214,000 m3 over 5 years, extracts sediment from the marine domain. As a result, the alongshore redistribution of sediment from the main peninsula by marine-driven processes decreased by 70,000 m3, representing 1.7\% of the total marine-driven dispersion. From the aeolian perspective, marine-driven deposition and erosion reshape the cross-shore profile, controlling the supply-limited aeolian sediment transport and the magnitude of sediment deposition in the foredunes. In the region with persistent accretion along the Sand Engine's southern flank, a higher than average foredune deposition was predicted due to morphological development of the region where sediment is picked up by aeolian transport. Including these marine processes in the coupled model resulted in an increase of 1.3\% in foredune growth in year 1 and up to 6.7\% in year 5 along this accretive section. At the northern flank, where the developing lagoon and tidal channel provided increased shelter to the supratidal beach, predicted foredune deposition reduced up to −11.5\% over the evaluation period. Our findings show that both aeolian and marine transports impact reshaping the nourished sand, where developments in one domain affect the other. The study findings echo that the interplay between aeolian- and marine-driven morphodynamics could play a relevant role when predicting sandy NBS.",

keywords = "AeoLiS, Coupled modelling, Delft3D Flexible Mesh, Mega nourishment, Morphodynamics, Numerical modelling",

author = "\{van Westen\}, Bart and Luijendijk, \{Arjen P.\} and \{de Vries\}, Sierd and Nicholas Cohn and Leijnse, \{Tim W.B.\} and \{de Schipper\}, \{Matthieu A.\}",

note = "Funding Information: This work was supported by the project TKI Dutch Coastline Challenge, The Netherlands , which is co-funded by the Rijksdienst voor Ondernemend Nederland (RVO), The Netherlands , the Dutch Ministry of Infrastructure and Water, The Netherlands , Rijkswaterstaat, The Netherlands , Vereniging van Waterbouwers, The Netherlands , EcoShape, The Netherlands , TU Delft, The Netherlands and the Deltares Strategic Research Program Seas and Coastal Zones, The Netherlands . Their contributions to this research are highly appreciated. The development of the coupling framework is partially funded by the Deltares Strategic Research Programme {\textquoteleft}Seas and Coastal Zones{\textquoteright}, The Netherlands . Furthermore, this work is part of the research programme DuneForce with project number 17064 , which is partly financed by the Dutch Research Council (NWO), The Netherlands . Field data was collected by the Dutch Ministry of Infrastructure and the Environment (Rijkswaterstaat) with the support of the Province of South-Holland, the European Fund for Regional Development EFRO and EcoShape Building with Nature. The constructive comments of Stefan Aarninkhof and Peter Herman (Delft University of Technology) helped to shape this study. Funding Information: This work was supported by the project TKI Dutch Coastline Challenge, The Netherlands, which is co-funded by the Rijksdienst voor Ondernemend Nederland (RVO), The Netherlands, the Dutch Ministry of Infrastructure and Water, The Netherlands, Rijkswaterstaat, The Netherlands, Vereniging van Waterbouwers, The Netherlands, EcoShape, The Netherlands, TU Delft, The Netherlands and the Deltares Strategic Research Program Seas and Coastal Zones, The Netherlands. Their contributions to this research are highly appreciated. The development of the coupling framework is partially funded by the Deltares Strategic Research Programme {\textquoteleft}Seas and Coastal Zones{\textquoteright}, The Netherlands. Furthermore, this work is part of the research programme DuneForce with project number 17064, which is partly financed by the Dutch Research Council (NWO), The Netherlands. Field data was collected by the Dutch Ministry of Infrastructure and the Environment (Rijkswaterstaat) with the support of the Province of South-Holland, the European Fund for Regional Development EFRO and EcoShape Building with Nature. The constructive comments of Stefan Aarninkhof and Peter Herman (Delft University of Technology) helped to shape this study. Publisher Copyright: {\textcopyright} 2024 The Authors",

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doi = "10.1016/j.coastaleng.2023.104444",

language = "English",

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T1 - Predicting marine and aeolian contributions to the Sand Engine's evolution using coupled modelling

AU - van Westen, Bart

AU - Luijendijk, Arjen P.

AU - de Vries, Sierd

AU - Cohn, Nicholas

AU - Leijnse, Tim W.B.

AU - de Schipper, Matthieu A.

N1 - Funding Information: This work was supported by the project TKI Dutch Coastline Challenge, The Netherlands , which is co-funded by the Rijksdienst voor Ondernemend Nederland (RVO), The Netherlands , the Dutch Ministry of Infrastructure and Water, The Netherlands , Rijkswaterstaat, The Netherlands , Vereniging van Waterbouwers, The Netherlands , EcoShape, The Netherlands , TU Delft, The Netherlands and the Deltares Strategic Research Program Seas and Coastal Zones, The Netherlands . Their contributions to this research are highly appreciated. The development of the coupling framework is partially funded by the Deltares Strategic Research Programme ‘Seas and Coastal Zones’, The Netherlands . Furthermore, this work is part of the research programme DuneForce with project number 17064 , which is partly financed by the Dutch Research Council (NWO), The Netherlands . Field data was collected by the Dutch Ministry of Infrastructure and the Environment (Rijkswaterstaat) with the support of the Province of South-Holland, the European Fund for Regional Development EFRO and EcoShape Building with Nature. The constructive comments of Stefan Aarninkhof and Peter Herman (Delft University of Technology) helped to shape this study. Funding Information: This work was supported by the project TKI Dutch Coastline Challenge, The Netherlands, which is co-funded by the Rijksdienst voor Ondernemend Nederland (RVO), The Netherlands, the Dutch Ministry of Infrastructure and Water, The Netherlands, Rijkswaterstaat, The Netherlands, Vereniging van Waterbouwers, The Netherlands, EcoShape, The Netherlands, TU Delft, The Netherlands and the Deltares Strategic Research Program Seas and Coastal Zones, The Netherlands. Their contributions to this research are highly appreciated. The development of the coupling framework is partially funded by the Deltares Strategic Research Programme ‘Seas and Coastal Zones’, The Netherlands. Furthermore, this work is part of the research programme DuneForce with project number 17064, which is partly financed by the Dutch Research Council (NWO), The Netherlands. Field data was collected by the Dutch Ministry of Infrastructure and the Environment (Rijkswaterstaat) with the support of the Province of South-Holland, the European Fund for Regional Development EFRO and EcoShape Building with Nature. The constructive comments of Stefan Aarninkhof and Peter Herman (Delft University of Technology) helped to shape this study. Publisher Copyright: © 2024 The Authors

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N2 - Quantitative predictions of marine and aeolian sediment transport in the nearshore–beach–dune system are important for designing Nature-Based Solutions (NBS) in coastal environments. To quantify the impact of the marine-aeolian interactions on shaping NBS, we present a framework coupling three existing process-based models: Delft3D Flexible Mesh, SWAN and AeoLiS. This framework facilitates the continuous exchange of bed levels, water levels and wave properties between numerical models focussing on the aeolian and marine domain. The coupled model is used to simulate the morphodynamic evolution of the Sand Engine mega-nourishment. Results display good agreement with the observed aeolian and marine volumetric developments, showing similar marine-driven erosion from the main peninsula and aeolian-driven infilling of the dune lake. To estimate the magnitude of the interactions between aeolian and marine processes, a comparison between the simulated morphological development by the coupled and stand-alone models was made. This comparison shows that aeolian sediment transport to the foredune, i.e. 214,000 m3 over 5 years, extracts sediment from the marine domain. As a result, the alongshore redistribution of sediment from the main peninsula by marine-driven processes decreased by 70,000 m3, representing 1.7% of the total marine-driven dispersion. From the aeolian perspective, marine-driven deposition and erosion reshape the cross-shore profile, controlling the supply-limited aeolian sediment transport and the magnitude of sediment deposition in the foredunes. In the region with persistent accretion along the Sand Engine's southern flank, a higher than average foredune deposition was predicted due to morphological development of the region where sediment is picked up by aeolian transport. Including these marine processes in the coupled model resulted in an increase of 1.3% in foredune growth in year 1 and up to 6.7% in year 5 along this accretive section. At the northern flank, where the developing lagoon and tidal channel provided increased shelter to the supratidal beach, predicted foredune deposition reduced up to −11.5% over the evaluation period. Our findings show that both aeolian and marine transports impact reshaping the nourished sand, where developments in one domain affect the other. The study findings echo that the interplay between aeolian- and marine-driven morphodynamics could play a relevant role when predicting sandy NBS.

AB - Quantitative predictions of marine and aeolian sediment transport in the nearshore–beach–dune system are important for designing Nature-Based Solutions (NBS) in coastal environments. To quantify the impact of the marine-aeolian interactions on shaping NBS, we present a framework coupling three existing process-based models: Delft3D Flexible Mesh, SWAN and AeoLiS. This framework facilitates the continuous exchange of bed levels, water levels and wave properties between numerical models focussing on the aeolian and marine domain. The coupled model is used to simulate the morphodynamic evolution of the Sand Engine mega-nourishment. Results display good agreement with the observed aeolian and marine volumetric developments, showing similar marine-driven erosion from the main peninsula and aeolian-driven infilling of the dune lake. To estimate the magnitude of the interactions between aeolian and marine processes, a comparison between the simulated morphological development by the coupled and stand-alone models was made. This comparison shows that aeolian sediment transport to the foredune, i.e. 214,000 m3 over 5 years, extracts sediment from the marine domain. As a result, the alongshore redistribution of sediment from the main peninsula by marine-driven processes decreased by 70,000 m3, representing 1.7% of the total marine-driven dispersion. From the aeolian perspective, marine-driven deposition and erosion reshape the cross-shore profile, controlling the supply-limited aeolian sediment transport and the magnitude of sediment deposition in the foredunes. In the region with persistent accretion along the Sand Engine's southern flank, a higher than average foredune deposition was predicted due to morphological development of the region where sediment is picked up by aeolian transport. Including these marine processes in the coupled model resulted in an increase of 1.3% in foredune growth in year 1 and up to 6.7% in year 5 along this accretive section. At the northern flank, where the developing lagoon and tidal channel provided increased shelter to the supratidal beach, predicted foredune deposition reduced up to −11.5% over the evaluation period. Our findings show that both aeolian and marine transports impact reshaping the nourished sand, where developments in one domain affect the other. The study findings echo that the interplay between aeolian- and marine-driven morphodynamics could play a relevant role when predicting sandy NBS.

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KW - Mega nourishment

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KW - Numerical modelling

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Predicting marine and aeolian contributions to the Sand Engine's evolution using coupled modelling

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